Hotel of the Month: Masseria Torre Maiazza, Puglia

Surrounded by a grove of ancient olive trees, the 16th-century Masseria Torre Maizza – chic sister hotel of nearby family-friendly Masseria Torre Coccaro – has been brought bang up-to -date with a cool, contemporary décor. High, barrel-vaulted rooms have been accessorised with chrome lights and mushroom-coloured, loose-weave linens, while its spa, pool, golf course and cookery school all provide welcome flashes of modernity.

All of the hotel’s pleasingly uncluttered rooms come with off-white walls, lined with old Italian advertising prints. In summer, go for the spacious Superior rooms, which open out onto a beautiful sun terrace that comes with two comfy armchairs. At cooler times of year, though, opt for the long Junior Suite, with its roaring open fire. The Palm Suite, which comes with a Jacuzzi and private pool is stunning – and ideal for midnight skinny-dipping opportunities.

The hotel has two restaurants to choose between. With black-and-white checked tiles on the floor and vines snaking across the ceiling, Delle Palme is a romantic spot for a meal. Chef Vito Giannuzzi’s Asian-influenced Pugliese cuisine – sliced Adriatic red tuna with dill, fennel, pine nuts and raisins; red-prawn risotto with a wild mushroom sauce – makes creative use of local ingredients. Indeed, the restaurant proudly operates a ‘kilometre zero’ policy, in which regional producers provide all the ingredients. Otherwise grab an informal bite in the quiet and romantic Delle Bouganville Bar, situated in a long, thin room that’s separated into several cosy nooks. Curl up on a sofa in front of the open fireplace, bow heads over one of the intimate circular tables or sip Pink Russians created by Puglia’s best barman – it’s true, he’s won an award – by candlelight on the outdoor summer terrace.

The Aveda Spa may be more medicinal than beautiful, but it still provides a super-relaxing experience. Its signature treatments involve dipping sachets of freshly picked herbs from the gardens into oil, and smothering them all over you. One of its therapists, Sergio Scutteri, has been voted one of Italy’s top five. The hotel also has a cookery school (€80 a person, including lunch), whereby guests can pick fresh olives and vegetables from the olive groves and use them to produce tasty Apulian dishes – and pizzas for the kids.

Masseria Torre Maizza has all the elements a visitor to Puglia could ask for; gorgeous views of olive groves against a flat, windswept and sun-beaten landscape, whitewashed stone arches and delectable regional food. Yet, though at first glance the scene looks wild and untamed, the hotel owners have refined and toned the surroundings to form a perfectly tasteful and apt whole. All is pristine, thoughtfully groomed and, above all, instantly appealing. These principles also apply to Masseria Torre Maizza’s staff, who follow the rules of propriety to the letter, delivering every task discreetly and carefully. Yet, should a guest wish to slump on one of the many sofas, don short shorts or even play hide and seek in the olive groves, they would not bat an eyelid.

Reviewed by Mr & Mrs Smith

Rooms         28, including eight suites.
Rates           €279–€1,450, excluding breakfast and taxes.

For more information visit Mr & Mrs Smith Hotel Collections